Cooking notes, recipes, and the occasional argument about where an ingredient comes from.

A real answer, including the parts that are inconvenient. Most Argentine salt is not sea salt at all — and the thing actually being made on the Patagonian coast is newer, smaller and stranger than the marketing suggests.

Not sea salt, and not the fancy stuff. The answer is a specific medium grain called sal parrillera — and the reason it works has nothing to do with where it came from.

The same salt, ground three ways, behaves like three different ingredients. Here is what actually changes — and the measurement problem that makes most recipes lie to you.

Either right before it hits the fire, or at least 45 minutes ahead. The famous rule about the forbidden window in between is softer than the internet thinks — and the thing that actually matters is something else entirely.

A parrilla in Lakeview, an empanada counter in Riverside, a grill out by O’Hare. The reviews start now.

Eight suites on Nahuel Huapi, a forest the brochure names wrongly, and what Argentina is actually made of.

A block off the Metra line, a parrilla, and the most-praised empanadas in the northwest suburbs.

The bucket of brine that sits beside every long asado.

Argentina's national drink, pressed onto beef and put over fire.

A disc of provolone, a hot pan, and ninety seconds of nerve.

Two ingredients, thrown at hot potatoes the second they come out.

Three decades on Southport, a wood fire, and a chimichurri with no chili in it.

A thin cutlet, seasoned breadcrumbs, and the step most recipes skip.

It is not a marinade, and it does not go in a blender.
